A few days with grandkids.

After our Golden Bay experience we were on our way back to Kaikoura to meet up with Rod who was going to drop James and Grace off for a few days.  The Takaka hill was still covered in ice even though we had left it until mid day to travel.I had the ute in 4 wheel drive a lot of the time and still had a couple of 4 wheel drifts with the weight of the rig on behind.  But we made it over safely and arrived in Kaikoura about six hours after our departure from Pohara. We stayed up at the farm that night then in the morning we moved down to the coast and set up at Omihi camp.
  Rod arrived with the kids who were excited and enjoying the school holidays.  They had all been busy moving into the new house and job at Oxford.  It was good that the shift coincided with the holidays as it had given them all a chance to get settled.  Catherine and the kids are still going to be at Oamaru until the end of school year and just come to Oxford in the weekends.  Jocelyn and I are coming to terms with the fact we are going to be starting work very soon as well.  I guess we will cope but it's been awhile now especially for me since we have had any sort of gainful employment.  We are really enjoying being lazy buggers.
  Anyway we got the kids settled into the rig and Rod headed for home.  The next morning was fine and very frosty with a low tide so it wasn't long before James and I were out clambering around the rocks.  It was really cold so neither of us had mentioned getting out the snorkelling gear.  We  just had our sneakers on poking around in the rocks looking for Paua.  It was James who first slipped and filled up his sneaker with freezing water and it wasn't long and he had filled up the other one as well.  So after that he was in there up to his knees lifting rocks and getting splashed with the incoming swells.  We found a patch of Paua and it wasn't long and we had 5 keepers in the bag.  I was still nice and dry and giving James all the encouragement to keep looking with his freezing legs in that extremely cold water.  We moved along a bit to a large rock pool with deep water surrounding a large rock.  James was up on the rock looking down the sides in the kelp when he slipped and in he went up to his chest.  There was a lot of gasping and high pitched squeals and his eyes were as wide as saucers with a very expressive look of shock on his face.  I would like to say I showed concern and expressed immeasurable  sympathy for his plight but alas I failed miserably.  After I had recovered from my laughter and wiped the tears from my face I asked him while he was there if he could check under the rock and see if he could see any Paua under  there.  He suggested I wasn't the loving grandfather he thought I was and wanted to go and get changed back at the rig.  I thought this showed a bit of a lack of commitment but we had enough for a feed so away we went.


My hard working helpers

James had a hot shower and warmed up then a bit of breakfast went down well and we made plans to head into town and do the Kaikoura coastal walk.  This walk starts around past the wharf by the seal colony and follows the cliffs around to South Bay.  It is a very picturesque walk as you are up quite high looking out over the sea and there is a large expanse of reef below with nice clear water exposing the channels and larger rocks.  The seal colonies are surprisingly large with many hundreds of them stretched out on the rocks and beaches. As you get further around even more large colonies appear and you have to wonder how many tonnes of fish are eaten every day by this huge hoard of hungry mouths.  And these are just a few of them as when you travel the coast in your car they are all over the rocks where ever you go.  On the way back James spotted 2 whales as they came up for air. We found it was easy to follow their progress by the spray they blew from their blowholes but then they dived and were gone.  They looked like humpbacks from where we were.   When we got back to the carpark Grace found lots of baby seals were coming out right onto the carpark and they were quite happy to come right up to you.They certainly look very cute with their large wet eyes and strange out of water gait as they flop and waddle up to you.

Next morning at low tide James got a bit braver and put on his wetsuit.  He still wasn't keen to go for a proper snorkel but he waded out and backed into the waves and looked under the rocks.  He started to pull a few Paua out and threw them to me to measure.  I got my feet wet and managed to find a couple of keepers and after about an hour we had our limit of 12 Paua.   Gracie came down and helped us to shuck clean and beat the Paua.  Then we headed up for a warm up and a feed in the rig.  The rest of the day was spent around camp and going for a walk up the beach.
  The following morning we decided we were going to harden up and get the gear on and get wet.  Low tide was about 10 am so it meant the sun had time to warm things up a bit before we had to gear up.   There was still a bit of a swell running  which makes it a bit more difficult to hold your position when diving down to look for paua.  Once we got the gear on and got in the old hunter gatherer gene just kicks in and it was enjoyable getting down under even though the water was freezing.  The suit does a good job of keeping you warm though James wasn't as thick as mine so he felt it a bit more.  It wasn't long and we had our limit of ordinary Paua and we also had 6 yellow foot as well.  So back to the rig and a hot shower to warm up.
After lunch we packed everything up and headed for Oxford.   We spent a couple of days there then we were off again and heading inland and south to Twizel with the idea of catching salmon and trout in the hydro canals.  We got to the NZMCA spot by the salmon farm not far from the town of twizel and found only one other camper van parked there.  Unfortunately the snow started to come down in little squalls that were drifting through and it was pretty bloody cold.  The hills around were covered in a heavy coating of snow and when the sky cleared it was very picturesque.  Jocelyn pretty much stayed inside the whole time we were in the area but I was out and about fishing without much luck and I also went for a drive up to Mt Cook and went for a good walk up to the hooker glacier.  That took about 3 hours and it was such a clear fine day the scenery was spectacular.

We then moved the rig down to the shores of lake Benmore at the Ohau C canal outlet and set up at the council camp there.  Last time we were there a lot of campers and caravans were set up and a lot of them had gardens and paths leading to the door.  But this time the camp was totally empty.  Maybe these south Islanders don't like the cold.  Or maybe we are just stupid...Anyway I got the kayak out and tied a fly onto my trout line and straight away was into a nice trout.I ended up with 2 and dropped another one then the next morning went out again and got 3 nice ones and released them all.   The frosts were  brutal but the days were magnificent. Out in the kayak paddling along, the lake was like glass and all the mountains around were covered in snow, it was pretty spectacular,although when I
got back in after getting a bit wet it was a while before my feet would warm up.

We packed up and decided we would head for Tekapo and stay a night there at the motor camp but when we got there we were told it was $20.00 each per night and if you wanted a shower it was another $2.00 each.  This was the most expensive camp we had come across especially for winter rates so we decided  to keep moving and ended up back at Oxford ready to start work.

Golden Bay

I went out for another fish at Elaine bay and had some success but I found the rules regarding the cod fishery a bit of a strain.   I caught one nice cod not long after I reached a promising headland.It was out a fair way and it had a nice bit of current flowing around it.   I measured the cod and it was about 32cms so it was into the bin for dinner.  I then caught a few small ones and returned them safely to the water and then I caught 2 very large ones and I thought yes they will have a couple of good size fillets on them but hang on a minute.   Thats right I measured them and they were both over 35cms by quite a margin so I had to very reluctantly put them back over the side.  Then next I caught another small one that sadly had swallowed the hook right down and I ended up killing that fish just getting the hook out.  But again I had to return it to the water anyway.  So I am finding If I could have just caught my two good size cod for dinner and went home I wouldn't have to keep fishing just to catch a feed.   I hear they may be going to review these rules but time will tell.

 We found Elaine bay to be a beautiful spot but I have heard since that the wind can become really fierce at the head where the camp is.   Apparently a camper van was blown over onto it's side a few weeks ago while parked in the same spot we were.
  Next stop Nelson.   We decided to stay at Tahunanui camp ground as there is a special discount for NZMCA members in self contained vehicles of $10.00 per night for up to 3 nights.  This camp is huge with a lot of permanents living there and there are facilities spread right through the camp but in winter they lock the doors on most of them so I guess it saves them a lot on servicing costs.  We called in and saw Jocelyns Auntie Barbara while in Nelson.  She has had a tough time lately with another hip replacement having to be done on both sides as the first time round she received some new hips that were meant to be the new bees knees  of modern medicine but in a short while they found they were breaking down and shedding bits and pieces through her body.   So they had to be replaced again but found they kept dislocating so she had to go in again and now she has lost a lot of feeling and can't carry her weight without collapsing so it's been a bit of a long road for her.  Still she believes she is over the worst of it and with her positive attitude to life she is her usual cheery self.
We had a bit of a wander around the area but I got a bit bored here.   The wind was ferocious and we didn't really make up our minds to go and do anything so I was pretty happy when we packed up and moved on.
  So over the hill to Takaka we went.  It's quite a climb up and over the Takaka hill but the ute hauled it up there no trouble.  We arrived in Takaka mid afternoon and had a coffee in the cafe at the pub.  The young lady that served us was great.  When she brought the coffees out she noticed we had a pamphlet with a map of the area on it and unbidden she said can I write on this for you.  She sat down and talked about all the attractions in the area and marked them on the map for us and told us all the ones we had to check out.  She was very pleasant and obviously proud of the area she lived in.  Especially Totaranui which she said all the locals holidayed there in the summer.

So after the coffee we headed off to Pohara along the coast a bit and we set up at the Pohara Boat club.  It's a very nice setting with a man made breakwater harbouring the local fishing boats and boat ramp for the locals to put their boats in.  For a small donation we can stay here for 2 nights and have the use of the showers and washing machine and dryer.   There is a dairy farm along the road where you can drive in and there is a raw milk dispenser.   So I took my 2 litre container, put $5.00 in the machine and 2 litres of fresh milk straight from the cow for my morning wheetbix.  Great.  Brings back happy memories of our dairy farming days.
While  there we took a drive to pupu springs and at the end of that road you can do a walk that takes  you up to a hand built water race that flows around the side of the hill then diverts down to a turbine that generates power.  I found it a very fascinating walk seeing what these guys built with pick and  shovel and wheelbarrow.   It probably took about 2 hours to do the circuit and while we went around an older women we met was on her third circuit round doing it at a jog.  There is quite a bit of uphill as well so she was doing pretty well.
 I took a walk to Tata beach that evening and found some mussels so I picked about 40 and took them home for dinner.   Steamed them open then rolled in flour and chucked in the pan.   Joc's favourite way of eating mussels.   I took the flounder spear along to Wainui inlet that night after dark and wandered around the estuary with the torch but didn't see any flounder.  It looked like an ideal place for them so maybe they are just not around much this time of year.

Next morning we headed over to Totaranui.  The road in here is gravel and very windy and tight  and I found on some of the corners I was using virtually the whole road to get the rig around.  Luckily this time of year there is not much traffic so I just took it slow with the lights on and had no trouble.
  Totaranui is a truly stunning place.  It has a vary large DOC camp that is beautifully layed out and well managed.   The current manager has been here for 17 years and lives on site.  Apparently through the summer  months the camp is packed out with around a thousand campers per night and the golden bay track runs through the camp as well so overseas tourists stay overnight as well.  Water taxis pick up and drop off tourists from the beach a number of times through the day as well.  With day visitors and picnickers  driving in and out.
  The beach itself is that beautiful golden sand  in a long curve with a headland at either end.  At the western end there is an estuary that totally dries out on the ebb tide and you can walk across to connect up with the coastal track and a track that takes you for a shorter walk on a loop out around the headland.  When we first went for a walk down to the end of the beach there was fresh deer sign tracked right across the main beach and on into the estuary.

Deer tracks on the beach

 It seems the wildlife around the camp have little fear of the human race as they are so used to people sharing their natural environment.  There are large numbers of wood pidgeons, fantails. paradise ducks, pukekos, wekas, bellbirds, and tuis, and none of them seem to bother to even move out of your way as you walk past.

  We found a nice site with all day sun and got set up.  The first day the wind was coming off the water so it was a bit rough to get the kayak out but the next day I was in the water and heading out to the headland in the distance.  It wasn't long and I had a nice cod on board and the rules here were anything over 30cms was fine with a limit of three.  I played around for a while but couldn't seem to find any more cod of a decent size then I noticed some birds working out from the point so I headed over there.  When I got closer I could see Kahawai splashing around on the surface so I flicked out my softbait and let it sink.  It wasn't long and I felt a fish pick up the lure and I was into a good size Kahawai. These fish put up such a strong fight and it is a real battle to get them in.  I landed that one then headed off after the school again and flicked out the lure.  Almost straight away I was hooked up again.  After another good battle I had that one on board and then it was out with the paddle and back to the beach.
Fresh fish for tea is always nice.    The next day we got the walking boots on and headed off for the coastal track that takes you around to another inlet.  Awaroa is another small settlement with a large estuary that dries out at low tide.   Unfortunately we reached there and it was only half tide so we couldn't cross.So we got the gas out and had a cup of soup and scoffed an apple then turned around and headed back.   On the way back we had another boil up and enjoyed a cup of tea at Goat Bay.  It is  really enjoyable walking these tracks as you follow the coast so you get the views out over the coast and also get to walk through some really attractive native bush with a bit of up and down stuff to get the heart rate up a bit.
  Next day was a bit drizzly so we mucked about camp and I had a bit of a wander around the scrub and rough ground around camp and I found where a lot of the deer were hanging out.  Then later in the afternoon it cleared a bit so I got into the kayak and paddled out for a fish.   Seeing as I wasn't doing too well in close I headed out a bit wider and drifted around with a soft bait out.  It wasn't long and I got a hit and had it nearly to the boat and it fell off.  I was pretty sure from the take and the way it fought I had just lost a gurnard.  So out with another cast and a short time later I hooked up again.  And sure enough I landed a good size gurnard.  I had a few more casts but no luck.  Time was short as Hugh and Pam the camp managers were calling in for drinks.   They wanted to check out the 5th wheeler and were impressed with the room we had inside.

 Next morning we took off for another walk this time at the estuary end of the beach.  This walk takes you up and around the headland.   The bellbirds were in abundance and the fantails flitting around our legs.  There's a lot of large kanukas in this area with some of the larger natives and some nice beech groves along the track.  We got back for a late lunch then Hugh called around and told us to meet him up at the workshop where he took us down to the creek to feed the eels.  I was very surprised when Joc climbed down into the creek and all the eels moved up to us and she was feeding and stroking them.    They were quite happy to be handled and dragged around.  Hugh was telling us that all the eels in the park are protected and there are large fines for anyone who mistreats them.

  Hugh and Pam invited us up to watch the All Blacks play Samoa and we had dinner as well.  Was a very enjoyable evening.
  Thursday I went for another walk around the rocks to Goat Bay to find some mussels but by the time I found them I was a bit late on the tide.Never mind I'll be there an hour earlier tomorrow.
 Got out on the kayak again and managed a couple of good size gurnard.  Lucky  Joc's one stayed on this time so she can have fish for tea too.HaHa.
  Very hard frosts here at the moment but lovely days.We find we are starting the days a bit later with that intense early morning cold.  Well we are heading on today.  We have found Totaranui to be a real gem and we have really loved our stay here.  Heading back to Pohara for a night for a long shower and to do a bit of washing then back to Kaikoura to meet James and Gracie for a few days.