Golden Bay

I went out for another fish at Elaine bay and had some success but I found the rules regarding the cod fishery a bit of a strain.   I caught one nice cod not long after I reached a promising headland.It was out a fair way and it had a nice bit of current flowing around it.   I measured the cod and it was about 32cms so it was into the bin for dinner.  I then caught a few small ones and returned them safely to the water and then I caught 2 very large ones and I thought yes they will have a couple of good size fillets on them but hang on a minute.   Thats right I measured them and they were both over 35cms by quite a margin so I had to very reluctantly put them back over the side.  Then next I caught another small one that sadly had swallowed the hook right down and I ended up killing that fish just getting the hook out.  But again I had to return it to the water anyway.  So I am finding If I could have just caught my two good size cod for dinner and went home I wouldn't have to keep fishing just to catch a feed.   I hear they may be going to review these rules but time will tell.

 We found Elaine bay to be a beautiful spot but I have heard since that the wind can become really fierce at the head where the camp is.   Apparently a camper van was blown over onto it's side a few weeks ago while parked in the same spot we were.
  Next stop Nelson.   We decided to stay at Tahunanui camp ground as there is a special discount for NZMCA members in self contained vehicles of $10.00 per night for up to 3 nights.  This camp is huge with a lot of permanents living there and there are facilities spread right through the camp but in winter they lock the doors on most of them so I guess it saves them a lot on servicing costs.  We called in and saw Jocelyns Auntie Barbara while in Nelson.  She has had a tough time lately with another hip replacement having to be done on both sides as the first time round she received some new hips that were meant to be the new bees knees  of modern medicine but in a short while they found they were breaking down and shedding bits and pieces through her body.   So they had to be replaced again but found they kept dislocating so she had to go in again and now she has lost a lot of feeling and can't carry her weight without collapsing so it's been a bit of a long road for her.  Still she believes she is over the worst of it and with her positive attitude to life she is her usual cheery self.
We had a bit of a wander around the area but I got a bit bored here.   The wind was ferocious and we didn't really make up our minds to go and do anything so I was pretty happy when we packed up and moved on.
  So over the hill to Takaka we went.  It's quite a climb up and over the Takaka hill but the ute hauled it up there no trouble.  We arrived in Takaka mid afternoon and had a coffee in the cafe at the pub.  The young lady that served us was great.  When she brought the coffees out she noticed we had a pamphlet with a map of the area on it and unbidden she said can I write on this for you.  She sat down and talked about all the attractions in the area and marked them on the map for us and told us all the ones we had to check out.  She was very pleasant and obviously proud of the area she lived in.  Especially Totaranui which she said all the locals holidayed there in the summer.

So after the coffee we headed off to Pohara along the coast a bit and we set up at the Pohara Boat club.  It's a very nice setting with a man made breakwater harbouring the local fishing boats and boat ramp for the locals to put their boats in.  For a small donation we can stay here for 2 nights and have the use of the showers and washing machine and dryer.   There is a dairy farm along the road where you can drive in and there is a raw milk dispenser.   So I took my 2 litre container, put $5.00 in the machine and 2 litres of fresh milk straight from the cow for my morning wheetbix.  Great.  Brings back happy memories of our dairy farming days.
While  there we took a drive to pupu springs and at the end of that road you can do a walk that takes  you up to a hand built water race that flows around the side of the hill then diverts down to a turbine that generates power.  I found it a very fascinating walk seeing what these guys built with pick and  shovel and wheelbarrow.   It probably took about 2 hours to do the circuit and while we went around an older women we met was on her third circuit round doing it at a jog.  There is quite a bit of uphill as well so she was doing pretty well.
 I took a walk to Tata beach that evening and found some mussels so I picked about 40 and took them home for dinner.   Steamed them open then rolled in flour and chucked in the pan.   Joc's favourite way of eating mussels.   I took the flounder spear along to Wainui inlet that night after dark and wandered around the estuary with the torch but didn't see any flounder.  It looked like an ideal place for them so maybe they are just not around much this time of year.

Next morning we headed over to Totaranui.  The road in here is gravel and very windy and tight  and I found on some of the corners I was using virtually the whole road to get the rig around.  Luckily this time of year there is not much traffic so I just took it slow with the lights on and had no trouble.
  Totaranui is a truly stunning place.  It has a vary large DOC camp that is beautifully layed out and well managed.   The current manager has been here for 17 years and lives on site.  Apparently through the summer  months the camp is packed out with around a thousand campers per night and the golden bay track runs through the camp as well so overseas tourists stay overnight as well.  Water taxis pick up and drop off tourists from the beach a number of times through the day as well.  With day visitors and picnickers  driving in and out.
  The beach itself is that beautiful golden sand  in a long curve with a headland at either end.  At the western end there is an estuary that totally dries out on the ebb tide and you can walk across to connect up with the coastal track and a track that takes you for a shorter walk on a loop out around the headland.  When we first went for a walk down to the end of the beach there was fresh deer sign tracked right across the main beach and on into the estuary.

Deer tracks on the beach

 It seems the wildlife around the camp have little fear of the human race as they are so used to people sharing their natural environment.  There are large numbers of wood pidgeons, fantails. paradise ducks, pukekos, wekas, bellbirds, and tuis, and none of them seem to bother to even move out of your way as you walk past.

  We found a nice site with all day sun and got set up.  The first day the wind was coming off the water so it was a bit rough to get the kayak out but the next day I was in the water and heading out to the headland in the distance.  It wasn't long and I had a nice cod on board and the rules here were anything over 30cms was fine with a limit of three.  I played around for a while but couldn't seem to find any more cod of a decent size then I noticed some birds working out from the point so I headed over there.  When I got closer I could see Kahawai splashing around on the surface so I flicked out my softbait and let it sink.  It wasn't long and I felt a fish pick up the lure and I was into a good size Kahawai. These fish put up such a strong fight and it is a real battle to get them in.  I landed that one then headed off after the school again and flicked out the lure.  Almost straight away I was hooked up again.  After another good battle I had that one on board and then it was out with the paddle and back to the beach.
Fresh fish for tea is always nice.    The next day we got the walking boots on and headed off for the coastal track that takes you around to another inlet.  Awaroa is another small settlement with a large estuary that dries out at low tide.   Unfortunately we reached there and it was only half tide so we couldn't cross.So we got the gas out and had a cup of soup and scoffed an apple then turned around and headed back.   On the way back we had another boil up and enjoyed a cup of tea at Goat Bay.  It is  really enjoyable walking these tracks as you follow the coast so you get the views out over the coast and also get to walk through some really attractive native bush with a bit of up and down stuff to get the heart rate up a bit.
  Next day was a bit drizzly so we mucked about camp and I had a bit of a wander around the scrub and rough ground around camp and I found where a lot of the deer were hanging out.  Then later in the afternoon it cleared a bit so I got into the kayak and paddled out for a fish.   Seeing as I wasn't doing too well in close I headed out a bit wider and drifted around with a soft bait out.  It wasn't long and I got a hit and had it nearly to the boat and it fell off.  I was pretty sure from the take and the way it fought I had just lost a gurnard.  So out with another cast and a short time later I hooked up again.  And sure enough I landed a good size gurnard.  I had a few more casts but no luck.  Time was short as Hugh and Pam the camp managers were calling in for drinks.   They wanted to check out the 5th wheeler and were impressed with the room we had inside.

 Next morning we took off for another walk this time at the estuary end of the beach.  This walk takes you up and around the headland.   The bellbirds were in abundance and the fantails flitting around our legs.  There's a lot of large kanukas in this area with some of the larger natives and some nice beech groves along the track.  We got back for a late lunch then Hugh called around and told us to meet him up at the workshop where he took us down to the creek to feed the eels.  I was very surprised when Joc climbed down into the creek and all the eels moved up to us and she was feeding and stroking them.    They were quite happy to be handled and dragged around.  Hugh was telling us that all the eels in the park are protected and there are large fines for anyone who mistreats them.

  Hugh and Pam invited us up to watch the All Blacks play Samoa and we had dinner as well.  Was a very enjoyable evening.
  Thursday I went for another walk around the rocks to Goat Bay to find some mussels but by the time I found them I was a bit late on the tide.Never mind I'll be there an hour earlier tomorrow.
 Got out on the kayak again and managed a couple of good size gurnard.  Lucky  Joc's one stayed on this time so she can have fish for tea too.HaHa.
  Very hard frosts here at the moment but lovely days.We find we are starting the days a bit later with that intense early morning cold.  Well we are heading on today.  We have found Totaranui to be a real gem and we have really loved our stay here.  Heading back to Pohara for a night for a long shower and to do a bit of washing then back to Kaikoura to meet James and Gracie for a few days.